Hi hi,
I’ve made it. A relatively non-eventful two day journey has reached me here to South Africa. And so far, I’m loving it. This blog is dedicated (can you dedicate blogs?) to Erine, for sharing your country, and even more – for sharing your amazing family who have been so good to me, while you yourself are farther north in Canada than I’ve ever set foot. Thanks Erine!
As I’ve been pretty tired, I’ve decided to trace back my first two days in South Africa by cups of rooibos tea, which are the only reason I’ve been awake at all for these first great moments.
The First Cup
It’s midnight in Jo’burg airport. I’ve already been sitting in the Mugg & Beans diner. And if we’re counting, I’ve downed six cups of rooibos in the past few hours, while my head dodds up and down onto the table, while I try concentrating on a newspaper stretched over the table. My journal sits there wanting to be written in, but I can’t bring myself to understand that I’ve actually arrived, and my emotions seem unstimulated as I can’t grasp I’ve actually left Toronto, slurped coffee outside Paris (and along the route continuously), and am now sitting back in Africa.
As the numbers dwindle inside the café, a man calls me over to his table so we can share the remaining hours of our layovers together, and orders another round of chai. Rob, a middled aged Afrikaans pool designer from Durban, had spent the week before in Kigali, Rwanda doing estimates for his new ventures for building pools there for hotels, gyms, and homes. We sit together, reviewing pictures on his digital of a large number of either cracked pool bottoms or deep holes he’s now getting ready to fill.
I’ve been exhausted for about twenty hours so far. Naps have been sporadic and generally short lived, and being someone who plans my days around the pillow, it seemed it could only have been an external force (perhaps my first round of teas, and the cups that followed with Rob), but we chatted like old friends for seven hours all through the night. Politics, business in Rwanda, faith and potatoes, holidays in Alaska. . . Rob taught me my first words of Zulu, convinced me to visit his homeland province of Natel, and set me straight about what cell phone provider I need.
As the sun pulled through the window, and we said goodbyes, it sunk in with deep excitement and pleasure – I am in Africa. I’m back.
The Second Cup
It’s late afternoon. After a morning deepset nap, I’m sitting front seat of a car, peering out at the rich winelands, as we weave under shadows of clouds of deep grays and purples, casting a dark and wonderful mood over the great hillsides of boulders seeped in deep grasses and the thinnest and tallest of trees. My recently met (and deeply enjoyed and appreciated) hosts: Erine’s Tannie Kotie and sister Jeanne Marie have taken me first to a shopping centre for a bite, and now after we’ve left a tour of the Stellenbosch University grounds (where I’ll be starting classes in a month!), they are taking me to Franzhoek for some proper crepes and coffee.
It could just be my sleepiness, but I’m overwhelmed by the colors all around me. The deep green palm fronds; the greys of the rocks that sink deeper and deeper into the mists; the dark dark soils and deep-set blacks and browns of the grape vines that run the fields. And then, every so often at the gates of a farm the vibrant bouganveillia or hibiscus or birds of paradise throwing in their rainbows to the mix.
The rain is coming down hard as we pull up to the coffee shop. The smells from the coffee shop are unlike those I’ve ever smelt before. So much, that I don’t even know what the smells are. But – as logic would fit it – it was coffee. Jeanne Marie agrees that coffee shops don’t ever smell of the true coffee beans and roasts except for in South Africa. A second cup, in this small town.
A Third Cup for the Road
Sunday. An entire night of sleep, an Afrikaans church service (thankfully I at least caught the part where I was introduced to the congregation before I lost myself to daydream), and then a nap to procede church.
We’re in the car again, Kotie, Geanne Marie, and another friend Lala (the list of people grow, as all friend lists should). We’re off to the ocean. We drive down through Cape Town, a city awash with construction projects underway for the soccer World Cup this time next year, and break over the mountain barrier (and through the clouds) to a drive of cliffs, informal settlements painted brightly, and the ocean.
We sit together at Seaforth, a nautical restaurant filled with old wine bottles and ropes, overlooking the rocky shore. Over fish lunches, ice creams, and coffees, the conversation continues along of everything South African I’m curious about. Working on my Afrikaans pronunciations and vocabulary, and laughing over the stereotypes and pop-icons that are big here.
Penguins. The first wild animals I’m to see this trip in Africa, are les petits Jackass Penguins that nest through the wild nasturtum and sharp branches by the ocean. The sea swelled up and down, in its forever manner, as we walked along the warm-winded path. The sea with its penguins on the right side, the indescribable (yup, I can’t really figure anyway to describe them at all) and settlements to the left). And in my heart, the simplest and profound of emotions I’ve felt in a long time: happy.
Greg Mortenson, Everest Climber and rural Afghani school builder, expresses that it’s three cups of tea that take strangers and make them family. As I was thinking of how I’d start off my first blog, I thought I’d share his sentiment, and try to encapsulate my first few days that have taken me in a country I haven’t ever set foot on before to one that I’m now so excited to be calling home for the next two years.
Tomorrow I’m off to Zambia for a month. Many cups of tea, and many adventures to come.
Sien jou, (see you!)
Cameron